If you’re looking for a free beginner crochet cardigan pattern that feels a little more modern and stylish, this one is a great next step.

This cardigan features a longer length with side slits, creating a relaxed, flowy fit that’s comfortable to wear and flattering on a variety of body types. The side slits add movement and give it a more modern silhouette, so it doesn’t feel bulky or boxy like more traditional cardigans.

The main panel uses a mixed lace stitch, while the sleeves are worked in simple double crochet, giving you a nice balance of texture and simplicity without making the pattern feel overwhelming. It’s a great option for advanced beginners who are ready to try something new while still keeping the construction straightforward.

Made with DK (#3 light) weight yarn, this cardigan is lightweight and perfect for layering throughout the seasons. It also includes instructions for adjusting the length and even making it without side slits if you prefer a more classic look.

Why You’ll Love Beginner Crochet Cardigan

✔ Beginner-friendly construction with simple shaping
✔ Modern side slit design for a more relaxed, flowy fit
✔ Lightweight and comfortable, perfect for layering
✔ Easy to customize (with or without side slits)
✔ A great next-step project for advanced beginners

Is This Beginner Crochet Cardigan Right for You?

This beginner crochet cardigan pattern is a great fit if you:

Have basic crochet experience and are ready to try something new
Want a modern, wearable cardigan that isn’t bulky or boxy
Prefer a lightweight layer you can wear in multiple seasons

Prefer an Easier Way to Follow This Pattern?

If you’d rather work from a clean, printable version without ads, you can grab the PDF below:

👉 Get the PDF hereEtsy, Ravelry, Lovecrafts

Perfect for:

Following along without scrolling
Printing and marking your progress
Keeping for future projects

Keep scrolling for the free pattern

If you’re looking for more crochet fun projects to work on, you might like these crochet patterns below

1. Summer Crochet Cropped top / 2. Shorter Brim Crochet Sun Hat / 3. Crochet Granny Square Granny Stripes Stitch Top

Materials

2 colors of Light/DK #3 weight yarn. I used Berroco Vintage DK
4 mm crochet hook
4.5 mm crochet hook
Scissors
Yarn needle
Stitch markers

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Stitches Used & Code (US Terms)

ch = chain
FSC = foundation sing crochet
st = stitch(es)
sc = single crochet
dc = double crochet
dc2tog = double crochet 2 stitches together
dc4tog = double crochet 4 stitches together
sk = skip
sp = space
Picot = ch 3, sl st into the back bump of the first ch that you made
YO = yarn over hook
sl st = slip stitch
bl = back loop
REP = repeat
RS = right side
WS = wrong side
” = inches

Skill: Advanced Beginner

Notes:

This beginner crochet cardigan pattern uses English (US) Terminology
This cardigan pattern is made as US women’s sizes XS(S, M, L, XL, XXL)
In this picture I have demonstrated with size small
If you start with a foundation chain, work in multiples of 6 + 2 chains.
If you use foundation single crochet (FSC), work in multiples of 6 + 1 FSC.
This pattern is a 4-row repeat (Rows 3–6)

About the cardigan design:

This beginner crochet cardigan is made from the bottom up. The back and front panels are worked separately, then joined at the shoulders. The sleeves are crocheted directly onto the panels after the shoulders are sewn. Finally, we’ll join the sides and finish by crocheting around all the edges

Gauge after blocking: Please adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge

Sleeve gauge (using a 4.5 mm crochet hook): 16 dc X 8.25 rows = 4 inches

Main pattern gauge (using a 4 mm crochet hook): 3.5 pattern repeats × 8.5 rows = 4 inches
(1 pattern repeat = 1 dc, ch 1, 4 dc, ch 1)
Check your gauge on the rows where you work 4 dc into the same stitch (rows 2, 4, 6, 8). See the picture below for how I measure it, look inside the ruler.

How to make a gauge swatch for the main pattern:

You can start either way. You can make 31 FSC, or ch 32, then work 1 sc in the second ch from the hook and in each ch across (31 sc total).

After that, just follow the back panel pattern for Rows 2–13.

Yarn needed:

Color A: 1345(1445, 1565, 1665, 1785, 1885) yards
Color B: 20(25, 30, 35, 40, 45) yards

Finished Garment Measurements After blocked

Body Width Across: 18.28″(20.57″, 24″, 26.28″, 29.71″, 32″)

Length: 33.41″(33.41″, 33.41″, 35.29″, 35.29″, 35.29″)

Armhole Depth: 8″(8.47″, 8.94″, 9.41″, 9.88″, 10.35″)

Sleeve Circumference: 17.25″(18.25″, 19.25″, 20.25″, 21.25″, 22.25″)

Sleeve Length: 9.21″(9.21″, 10.18″, 10.18″, 11.15″, 11.15″)

If you’d like a clean, printable version of this pattern that you can follow without ads or scrolling, you can grab the PDF below:

👉 Get the PDF here

Crochet Cardigan Pattern

Back Panel (Make 1)

For the back panel we’re going to use color A with a 4mm crochet hook. Work from the bottom up.

Row 1 (RS): There are two ways to start. You can make 97 (109, 127, 139, 157, 169) FSC, or ch 98 (110, 128, 140, 158, 170), then work 1 sc into the second ch from the hook and in each ch across. You should have a total of 97 (109, 127, 139, 157, 169) sc

Row 2 (WS): Turn, ch 3 (count as 1 dc), *ch 1, sk 2 st, 4 dc into next st, ch 1, sk 2 st, 1 dc into next st* REP from *TO* across.

Row 3: Turn, ch 3 (count as 1 dc), ch 2, sk next ch, dc4tog, *ch 2, sk next ch, 1 dc into next st, ch 2, sk next ch, dc4tog* REP from *TO* until you have 1 ch and 1 st left, ch 2, sk next ch, 1 dc into the turning 3rd ch.

Row 4: Turn, ch 3 (count as 1 dc), 1 dc into same st, ch 1, sk 2 ch, 1 dc into next st, *ch 1, sk 2 ch, 4 dc into next st, ch 1, sk 2 ch, 1 dc into next st* REP from *TO* until you have 2 ch and 1 st left, ch 1, sk 2 ch, 2 dc into the turning 3rd ch.

Row 5: Turn, ch 2 loosely (do not count as a st), 1 dc into next st, ch 2, sk next ch, 1 dc into next st, *ch 2, sk next ch, dc4tog, ch 2, sk next ch, 1 dc into next st* REP from *TO* until you have 1 ch and 2 st left, ch 2, sk next ch, dc2tog.

Row 6: Turn, ch 3 (count as 1 dc), *ch 1, sk 2 ch, 4 dc into next st, ch 1, sk 2 ch, 1 dc into next st* REP from *TO* across.

REP Row 3 – Row 6: 16(16, 16, 17, 17, 17) more times. You’ll have a total of 70(70, 70, 74, 74, 74) rows.

**If you’d like a shorter cardigan, repeat Rows 3–6 fewer times before working the final row. If you prefer a longer cardigan, repeat Rows 3–6 more times before working the final row (instructions for the final row are below). Just make sure the front and back panels have the same number of rows

Row 71(71, 71, 75, 75, 75): Turn, ch 3 (count as 1 dc), ch 2, sk next ch, dc4tog, *ch 2, sk next ch, 1 dc into next st, ch 2, sk next ch, dc4tog* REP from *TO* until you have 1 ch and 1 st left, ch 2, sk next ch, 1 dc into the turning 3rd ch, cut the yarn. Check picture below

Front Panel (Make 2)

For the front panel we’re going to use color A with a 4mm crochet hook. Work from the bottom up.

Row 1 (RS): There are two ways to start. You can make 43(49, 55, 61, 67, 73) FSC, or ch 44(50, 56, 62, 68, 74), then work 1 sc into the second ch from the hook and in each ch across. You should have a total of 43(49, 55, 61, 67, 73) sc

Row 2 (WS): Turn, ch 3 (count as 1 dc), *ch 1, sk 2 st, 4 dc into next st, ch 1, sk 2 st, 1 dc into next st* REP from *TO* across.

Row 3: Turn, ch 3 (count as 1 dc), ch 2, sk next ch, dc4tog, *ch 2, sk next ch, 1 dc into next st, ch 2, sk next ch, dc4tog* REP from *TO* until you have 1 ch and 1 st left, ch 2, sk next ch, 1 dc into the turning 3rd ch.

Row 6: Turn, ch 3 (count as 1 dc), *ch 1, sk 2 ch, 4 dc into next st, ch 1, sk 2 ch, 1 dc into next st* REP from *TO* across.

REP Row 3 – Row 6: 16(16, 16, 17, 17, 17) more times. You’ll have a total of 70(70, 70, 74, 74, 74) rows.

Join The Shoulder Seams

For the shoulder seams, I’m going to use Color B with a 4 mm crochet hook, using a flat slip stitch join method. You can use any method you prefer, just make sure both shoulder seams are done the same way.

For the flat sl st join, we’ll join on the right side. Make sure to turn your panels right side facing up. Then place stitch markers on the front and back panels at the shoulder seams, making sure the stitch count matches across both shoulders.

Flat sl st join: Insert hook into first st bl of the right panel and then insert hook into first st bl of the left panel, grab a new yarn, YO and pull through all the loops on hook, *insert hook into next st bl of the right panel and then insert hook into next st bl of the left panel, YO and pull through all the loops on hook* REP from *TO* until you reach the end where you placed the stitch marker, ch 1 and cut the yarn. Check picture below

Sleeves

We’re going to crochet the sleeves directly onto the panels after the shoulders are sewn. We’ll use Color A with a 4.5 mm crochet hook.

Right Sleeve (When you wear it)

Row 1: With your panel RS facing up, skip 54 (53, 52, 55, 54, 53) rows, start counting from the FSC row on the back panel, add new yarn into the next row, ch 3 (count as 1 dc), 1 dc into the same row sp, 2 dc into each row sp until you reach the shoulder seam, 1 dc into the shoulder seam, 2 dc into each of next 17(18, 19, 20, 21, 22) row sp. Total of 69(73, 77, 81, 85, 89) dc. Check picture below

Row 2: Turn, ch 3 (count as 1 dc), 1 dc into each st across. Total of 69(73, 77, 81, 85, 89) dc

Row 3 – Row 19(19, 21, 21, 23, 23): REP Row 2

The end of row 19(19, 21, 21, 23, 23), cut the yarn. Check picture below

**If you’d like a shorter sleeve, repeat Row 2 fewer times. If you prefer a longer sleeve, repeat Row 2 more times. Just make sure both sleeves have the same number of rows.

Left Sleeve (When you wear it)

Row 1: With your panel RS facing up, skip 54 (53, 52, 55, 54, 53) rows, start counting from the FSC row on the left front panel, add new yarn into the next row, ch 3 (count as 1 dc), 1 dc into the same row sp, 2 dc into each row sp until you reach the shoulder seam, 1 dc into the shoulder seam, 2 dc into each of next 17(18, 19, 20, 21, 22) row sp. Total of 69(73, 77, 81, 85, 89) dc. Check picture below

Row 2: Turn, ch 3 (count as 1 dc), 1 dc into each st across. Total of 69(73, 77, 81, 85, 89) dc

Row 3 – Row 19(19, 21, 21, 23, 23): REP Row 2

The end of row 19(19, 21, 21, 23, 23), cut the yarn. Check picture below

**If you’d like a shorter sleeve, repeat Row 2 fewer times. If you prefer a longer sleeve, repeat Row 2 more times. Just make sure both sleeves have the same number of rows.

Joining The Sleeves and Sides

I’m going to use a flat slip stitch join for the sleeves and sides with Color B and a 4.5 mm crochet hook. You can use any method you prefer, just make sure both sides are joined the same way.

For the flat sl st join, we’ll join on the right side of the work, working into the end of each row (sp for reference). It can be a little hard to see since we’re not crocheting into the regular stitches, so just try your best and take your time. First, skip 44 (43, 38, 39, 38, 35) rows on both the front and back panels, counting from the FSC row. Place a stitch marker in the next row space. Begin joining from the end of the sleeve toward the side.

**If you want the side slit to be higher, simply skip more rows. If you prefer a lower side slit, skip fewer rows, just make sure both sides have the same row count. If you don’t want a side slit at all, you can skip this step and join from the sleeve all the way down to the side bottom.

Flat sl st join: Insert hook into first st bl of the right panel and then insert hook into first st bl of the left panel, grab a new yarn, YO and pull through all the loops on hook, *insert hook into next st bl of the right panel and then insert hook into next st bl of the left panel, YO and pull through all the loops on hook* REP from *TO* unit you reach the stitch marker, cut the yarn. In each sp, I’m trying to make 2 flat sl st loosely, but if you need to add more flat sl st into each sp, you absolutely can. Just make sure both sides have the same st count. Check picture below

Right Side Edges (When you wear it)

For the side edges, I’m going to use Color B with a 4.5 mm crochet hook. We’re going to work into the end of each row (sp for reference).

With the right side facing out. Make slip knot, insert hook into the loop, insert hook into the FSC row on the bottom back panel and make 1 sc, *(1 sc, Picot, 1 sc All into next sp), 2 sc into next sp* REP from *TO* until you reach the last sp where we ended the flat sl st join.

Next: We’ll continue crochet into each sp on the other side (the front panel side), *2 sc into next sp, (1 sc, Picot, 1 sc All into next sp)* REP from *TO* until you reach the FSC row, 1 sc into the FSC row, cut the yarn. Check picture below

Left Side Edges (When you wear it)

For the side edges, I’m going to use Color B with a 4.5 mm crochet hook. We’re going to work into the end of each row (sp for reference).

With the right side facing out. Make slip knot, insert hook into the loop, insert hook into the FSC row on the bottom left front panel and make 1 sc, *(1 sc, Picot, 1 sc All into next sp), 2 sc into next sp* REP from *TO* until you reach the last sp where we ended the flat sl st join.

Next: We’ll continue crochet into each sp on the other side (the back panel side), *2 sc into next sp, (1 sc, Picot, 1 sc All into next sp)* REP from *TO* until you reach the FSC row, 1 sc into the FSC row, cut the yarn. Check picture below

Collar Edges

For the collar edges, I’m going to use Color A with a 4.5 mm crochet hook. We’re going to work into the end of each row (sp for reference).

With the right side facing out. Make slip knot, insert hook into the loop, insert hook into the FSC row on the bottom right front panel and make 1 sc, 2 sc into each sp loosely until you reach the shoulder seam, 1 sc into the shoulder seam, 1 sc into each st and each ch across the back neckline until you reach the next shoulder seam, 1 sc into the shoulder seam, 2 sc into each sp loosely until you reach the FSC row, 1 sc into the FSC row, cut the yarn and weave all the ends. Check picture below

And that’s it! You’ve finished your side slit cardigan, congratulations!🙌

HERE’S THE VIDEO TUTORIAL FOR THIS CARDIGAN