I know it looks like I’m just flawlessly knocking out all these designs, but behind the scenes it looks a little more, ya know, chaotic. Plenty of adult language and fits of frustration. This crochet tank top pattern was no different.
It took a few iterations and some frogging, but it’s ready to share it with you all now and I’m so excited!
This crochet tank top pattern is actually easy to make and beginner friendly, it just took me a few tries to get the design I was happy with.
It’s made from the top down, which means you can make it as long as you’d like. I think it would make a really cute summer dress, but I just don’t have time to take it that far at the moment.
So, I’m counting on some of you to get creative and turn this into a summer dress. Can’t wait to see your work!
I used double crochet, which is a really basic stitch, and I increased every row. That makes the crochet tank top flair out towards the bottom to give it some curves and flow.
The design was otherwise a little plain so I wanted to add a little accent by using an I-Cord for the straps. If you’re not familiar with the I-cord, I have an I-Cord tutorial for you to brush up on it.
I also wanted to give a quick update on this new yarn, new to me anyway. This is the first project I’ve made with this Holst Garn yarn.
I found it at a local yarn store, so I don’t know how widely available it is in store. They do have a website. Here’s a link to the exact yarn I bought. It’s a really good price for the quality of yarn, so I’m loving it.
This is NOT an affiliate link and I’m not sponsored by Holst Garn Yarn at all. I just think it’s a great value and great product and I want to share that with you all.
If you’d like this pattern in an ad free PDF format, it’s available for purchase on all our shops below. Enjoy the pattern!
If you’re looking for more crochet summer top patterns, you might like these.
- #0 Lace/2ply weight yarn
- I used Holst Garn Yarn Coast in color Moorland #0 Lace/2ply weight yarn
- Crochet hook size 3mm
- Yarn needle
- Stitch marker
*These materials contain affiliate links, for which I make a small commission. It’s no extra cost to you, makes shopping easier and helps to keep the lights on.
Stitches Used & Code (US Term)
- ch = chain
- st = stitch(es)
- dc = double crochet
- sk = skip
- REP = repeat
- RS = right side
- WS = wrong side
- ” = inches
- The pattern is written in English US terminology
- This pattern made as US women’s Sizes XS( S, M, L, XL, XXL )
- In this picture I have demonstrated with size Small
- This tank top is worked flat in two separate pieces from the top down and then sewn together (Front and back panels are made the same). The straps are made separately and sewn to the tank top later.
Yarn needed: 550( 580, 635, 690, 745, 775 ) Yards
Gauge blocked: 20 st X 10.5 rows = 4″
Measurements (After blocked)
- XS = 14.8″ Chest Width, 24.8″ Hem Width X 18.5″ Length
- S = 15.6″ Chest Width, 25.2″ Hem Width X 18.5″ Length
- M = 17.2″ Chest Width, 27.2″ Hem Width X 19.26″ Length
- L = 18.8″ Chest Width, 29.2″ Hem Width X 20.02″ Length
- XL = 20.4″ Chest Width, 31.2″ Hem Width X 20.78″ Length
- XXL = 21.2″ Chest Width, 31.6″ Hem Width X 20.78″ Length
Crochet Tank Top Written Pattern
UPPER LEFT SIDE
Row 1 (WS): ch 7( 7, 9, 11, 13, 13 ), sk 3 ch (count as 1 dc), 1 dc into next ch and each ch across. Total of 5( 5, 7, 9, 11, 11 ) st
Row 2 (RS): Turn, ch 3 (count as 1 dc), 1 dc into first st/same ch 3 st, 1 dc into each st until you have 1 st left, 2 dc into last st. Total of 7( 7, 9, 11, 13, 13 ) st
Row 3 – Row 16( 17, 18, 19, 20, 21 ): REP Row 2
In each row you’ll increase 2 st (1 st on each side). The end of row 16( 17, 18, 19, 20, 21 ) you’ll have a total of 35( 37, 41, 45, 49, 51 ) st and then cut the yarn.
UPPER RIGHT SIDE
The upper right is made the same as the upper left side but DO NOT cut the yarn at the end of row 16( 17, 18, 19, 20, 21 ). Proceed to joining row instructions
Joining the upper right and left together
Row 17( 18, 19, 20, 21, 22 ): With the upper right side. Turn, ch 3 (count as 1 dc), 1 dc into first st/same ch 3 st, 1 dc into each st until you have 1 st left, 2 dc into last st. Bring up the upper left side, for sizes XS, M, XL place it WS facing up and for sizes S, L, XXL place it RS facing up then make 2 dc into first st on the upper left, 1 dc into each st until you have 1 st left, 2 dc into last st. Total of 74( 78, 86, 94, 102, 106 ) st. Check picture below
Row 18( 19, 20, 21, 22, 23 ): Turn, ch 3 (count as 1 dc), 1 dc into first st/same ch 3 st, 1 dc into each st until you have 1 st left, 2 dc into last st. Total of 76( 80, 88, 96, 104, 108 ) st
Row 19( 20, 21, 22, 23, 24 ) – Row 42( 42, 44, 46, 48, 48 ): REP Row 18( 19, 20, 21, 22, 23 )
*In each row you’ll increase 2 st (1 st on each side). The end of row 42( 42, 44, 46, 48, 48 ) you’ll have a total of 124( 126, 136, 146, 156, 158 ) st, then cut the yarn and leave 20-26″ long tail. Check picture below
*If you’d like a shorter or longer top, just repeat row 18( 19, 20, 21, 22, 23 ) less or more times
For the back panel, make the same as the front panel
STRAPS (MAKE 4)
For the straps I used an I-cord, but if you’d prefer a different option you can make a chain about 5-7″ long and then slip stitch back across. Just make sure to leave a 6-8″ tail before you start the chain and leave another 6-8″ tail when you finish the strap. In the picture tutorial below I used different yarn so you can see it better, because the original yarn is so thin.
Row 1 : Leave a 6-8 inch long tail, then ch 3. Insert hook into second ch from hook, YO pull up a loop. Insert hook into next ch, YO pull up a loop. Insert hook into next ch, YO pull up a loop. Total of 3 loops on hook (Check picture below)
Row 2 : Remove two loops on hook (Make sure not to lose them). With remaining loop on hook, YO pull up a loop. Insert hook into next loop, YO pull up a loop. Insert hook into next loop, YO pull up a loop. Total of 3 loops on hook (Check picture below)
Repeat row 2 until your strap reaches about 5-6 inches long
The last row of I-Cord : With 3 loops on hook, YO pull through all the loops on hook then ch 1 to secure. Cut the yarn and leave about 6-8 inches tail
SEW THE STRAPS INTO THE TOP
Take the back and front panel, place them with the correct side facing down, then we’ll sew on the wrong side. Using the tail that we left on the I-cord straps earlier to sew. I sew two I-cord straps on each side of the tank top. Check picture below
SEW THE SIDE TOGETHER
Fold your top in half with the right side facing each other and we will sew on the wrong side, using the tail that we left earlier to sew. Start sewing from the bottom up about 25 rows to the armpit for all the sizes, I recommend trying it on at this point to make sure you’re happy with the fit then weave all the ends (Both sides are sewn the same). Check picture below
You’ve made it to the end, which means you either found it entertaining, or you finished the crochet tank top pattern. If you were entertained, I hope you’ll give the pattern a try and enjoy making it. If you did finish the crochet tank pattern, congratulations! It’s an achievement worth celebrating!
Be sure to share with your friends and loved ones in the fiber arts and maker community. If they aren’t fiber junkies yet, get them started! The world needs more makers.
Until next time, happy crocheting.
HERE’S THE VIDEO TUTORIAL FOR THIS CROCHET RELAXED FIT TANK TOP